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Locals often do a crawl of pintxos bars, snaffling plates of the snacks with their drinks before heading off to eat dinner proper. The best time to go on a txikiteo pintxo crawl is Saturday and Sunday from noon, when Bilbotarras people from Bilbao in Basque go out in groups to eat, drink and sing before going home for lunch.
Head deep into Casco Viejo Old Town and start at the Irrintzi bar, in calle Santa Maria, an experimental pintxo place with a touch of fusion gastronomy from other countries. For a more traditional take, visit Gatz, also in calle Santa Maria. Next stop is Plaza Nueva, where you can take a seat on the terrace of the venerable Victor Montes, the Pokies Australia Fair Dental of Casco Viejo.
While most of post-Franco Spain was lapping up imported pop or dancing to Latin rhythms, the young folk of Bilbao were exploring punk, rock, ska and reggae.
Curious in that it mixed the rawness of the Sex Pistols, Ramones and early Pokies Wild Fusion Digital Centre with a politicised response to the mayhem of Basque life — nationalism, ETA terrorism, state terrorism, marginalisation, heroin use, industrial decay and unemployment — the Rock Radical Vasco scene was also a pacifist movement.
Signed to small local labels, the bands had their own local circuit, mainly squats and tiny venues. The project is financed by studio rents and the proceeds from events such as concerts, dance performances and audiovisual expositions.
Nearby Gaztetxe de Irala Andres Isasi 15 is a squat used for concerts, workshops and other social gatherings. Badulake Hernani, 10 is a cool gay pub, while on calle 2 de Mayo, Bullitt and Kremlin are great if you want to hear indie sounds, and Burton hosts live gigs and DJ sets.
The Casco Viejo is home to high street brands and small local shops. Next door is Loreak Mediananother popular local shop for casual gear that is getting a name for itself overseas. Vueling Airlines flies direct from Heathrow to Bilbao. Easyjet flies direct from Stansted and Manchester. Unders have to be accompanied by an adult.
Time Out produce a series of guidebooks on Spanish destinationsavailable from the Time Out shop for a reduced price.
Aleida StrowgerTravel editor.
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Around town The vast majority of visitors to Bilbao probably go to gawp at the Guggenheim Museum. Ancient narrow streets Bilbao is pedestrian friendly and small enough that a visitor can cover most of it on foot in a day. Eating and drinking No visit to the Basque Country — recognised throughout Spain for its gastronomic greatness — would be complete without trying pintxos, the local version of tapas. Shopping The Casco Viejo is home to high street brands and small local shops.
From Bilbao airport there are regular public buses to the centre of the city. Time Out guides Time Out produce a series of guidebooks on Spanish destinationsavailable from the Time Out shop for a reduced price.
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